May
Oily skin could be an uncomfortable condition that could wreck your self-esteem. But there’s an explanation behind all that oil.
Your skin is oily because the sebaceous glands are producing too much sebum. Sebaceous glands are attached to hair follicles all over your body (except on the palms and soles).
And this is a good thing. Sebum (oil) lubricates the skin and acts as a protective barrier. It also refreshes the skin with its antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Without oil, your skin would look and feel dry and brittle.
The problem comes when the glands are producing too much oil. That’s when your face looks “greasy.” The oil mixes with dead skin cells. It then clogs the pores and disrupts the natural skin-shedding cycle. The excess oil also traps in bacteria and other irritants that inflame the skin.
So that’s how your skin becomes oily.
But why do these glands overproduce oil? The causes of oily skin are usually down to one or more of these factors:
Overactive or larger than average sebaceous glands are usually inherited. If your parents had large pores or suffered from oily skin, chances are you will experience the same. While there’s no real explanation of why genetics play such an important role, you can trace your oily skin up your family tree.
Could it be your hormones? Androgens affect insulin levels, bone health, sexual health, and a lot more. However, these hormones are also mainly responsible for oil production. When they fluctuate, oil production increases, such as during puberty, just before menstruation, during pregnancy, and during menopause.
Having a stressful time at your job or home? You will probably develop oily skin. Another hormone called cortisol – aka the stress hormone – rises when you are stressed. This can restrict the immune system, increase inflammation, and in turn, increase oil production.
Hot and humid weather allows the skin to produce more oil from the sebaceous glands. For instance, there will be an increase in oil production during the summer, compared to winter or fall. Protect your skin during the seasons to prevent excess oil production.
Enlarged pores mean there is a greater opportunity for the skin to leak excess sebum and trap more dirt. There are a few reasons why you have enlarged pores. Pores can stretch out with age, due to a reduction of collagen. Without collagen, our skin does not look as firm and lively as in our younger days. Other reasons include weight fluctuations and previous bouts of acne.
You can wash your face or exfoliate too often or too harshly. Or you can use water that is too hot. In so doing, you strip the oil from your skin. The glands get an emergency message, the skin needs oil, and step up production.
It may be counterintuitive, but oily skin needs moisturizing. When your skin is not receiving enough hydration, the glands kick in to compensate.
Each skin type has skincare products that work best. For those who have oily skin, it is important to research about the kinds of products that will not trigger it further. Using the correct skincare product suitable for the skin’s conditions will effectively reduce skin imperfections brought by skin oiliness.
Oral contraceptives and hormone replacements can increase oil production, as will some steroids. Other medications can dehydrate the skin and produce excess oil.
A diet high in carbohydrates, such as white bread, white rice, and sugar, may lead to high levels of insulin, which in turn can elevate oil production.
There are some causes that you can fix, e.g., poor diet, over-cleansing, stress. There are causes that you have absolutely no control over, e.g., genes, hormones, climate, but that don’t sentence you to a troubled complexion for life. If you cannot prevent the oiliness, there are ways for you to manage it.
Wash your face twice a day, morning and evening, (and after strenuous exercise) with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water. Avoid cleansers with fragrances or harsh chemicals that irritate or dry out the skin. Avoid loofahs and rough washcloths—the friction damages the skin barrier and stimulates the oil glands.
Salicylic acid is non-abrasive, and hydrates and exfoliates both the surface of your skin and the pore lining. Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid. This means it is soluble in oil and can easily penetrate the glands. Oily skin often has a thick coat of dead skin cells and a thick pore lining. Salicylic acid is able to break through the surface debris and get into the pores, clearing them out and reducing excess oil.
Remember, using moisturizers will not make the skin more greasy. The use of the right moisturizers will keep the skin hydrated so the glands will no longer produce more sebum. In choosing for a moisturizer, make sure that it is oil-free to ensure that it will not create any added oil. Avoid skin-care products with alcohol because this dries out the skin. In turn, the glands produce more oil.
Retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A. It combats free radicals that cause oxidative stress and result in the oil glands to stepping up production. Retinol also changes the way that the skin cells develop from the inside out and increase the turnover of these cells. This results in healthy, unclogged pores. Retinol-based creams used at night, therefore, reduce the amount of oil that your skin produces. Retinol also helps keep pores tighter so that they create and secrete less oil.
Medical-grade facials are performed in a dermatologist’s office, use medical-grade products and tools, and are customized to your specific skin type. While they include similar general procedures as a spa facial: cleansing, exfoliation, extraction and hydration; the difference is that stronger and more effective products are infused into the skin.
Chemical peels are an in-office procedure where the surface layers of dead skin are gently removed. Salicylic acid is commonly used on oily skin to control oil production. It penetrates more deeply to clear out clogged pores and has anti-inflammatory properties to reduce skin irritation. Other key ingredients in chemical peels include alpha-hydroxy acids, like glycolic acid and lactic acid. Some skin types are more sensitive to burning and discoloration, so chemical peels should only be performed under the supervision of a board-certified dermatologist.
For more information, call (301) 479-6544 or book an appointment online to schedule a consultation. Dr. Ife Rodney is a board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist with expertise in skincare, anti-aging and skin rejuvenation for all skin types. Eternal Dermatology is conveniently located in Fulton, MD, and serves Clarksville, Columbia, Ellicott City, Laurel, Bowie, Silver Spring, and Howard County, Maryland.